HATCH”S HILL, GOVERNOR’S HILL,aka, HOLLY HILL.

 

PART  1        The Mansion on Holly Hill, Seaview, Marshfield MA.

Over 500 acres of hill, 150 feet high, that commands a view of 180 degrees  overlooking Massachusetts Bay, from Rockport  to Provincetown, to Plymouth’s White Cliffs.
Holly Hill, looking north to Fourth Cliff.

The First Hatch to arrive in the area (1767) was Captain Noah Hatch.  Along with his brother, they owned a packet ship, “The North River.”  The Hatch’s delivered goods from Boston to the White’s Ferry area and supplied Hatch’s Store in Littletown, as well as others. They acquired a large amount of land on this hill, hence “Hatch’s Hill.”  Noah’s family married into the established Keene family that lived in the same area. The intersection of the Littletown Rd., (Summer St) and the Ferry Rd., ( Elm St), and Church St, was known as Hatch’s Corner, now known as Keene’s Corner.
Hatch’s Hill was covered with first-growth trees of many species. The tall straight White Pines were first to go into the masts of the ships built on the North River.  By 1800 the Hill was as bald as a billiard ball.

Holly Hill void of trees.

Hatch’s Hill became grazing land for cattle being raised by the farms built around it’s perimeter.

A lawyer from Maine, George Emery, married  into the famous ship-building Hall family.  The Hall’s now owned most of Hatch’s Hill.  In 1885, George  and his bride, Marcia Hall,  built a mansion on the east side of the Hatch Hill.   It soon became known as Governor’s Hill.
George Emery was born in Corinth, Maine, became a lawyer and was involved in politics in Medford, Mass. and Washington D.C.
President Ulysses S. Grant appointed George as Governor of Utah in 1875.
After George retired, he returned to Sea View and  became  involved in town politics and was president of the Marshfield Fair, along with other ventures. During his residency, he inherited and acquired 475 acres of land on this hill.
His estate included a  mansion (George and Marcia’s residence), 4 houses, a number of outbuildings, a butcher shop,  a windmill tower, 3 carriages,  6 horses, 10 cows, along with other farm animals.  Half of the eastern side was grazing land. North of his residence, he planted  a huge garden of exotic trees and plants that he called Holly Grove.  He and his wife enjoyed nearly a quarter- century of the good life on his hill.
Marcia died in 1898….George died a  very rich man in 1909.

 

George’s son lived in the mansion briefly after his father’s death.

Dr. Edwin Dwight, from Auburndale Ma., purchased the mansion and much of the land around 1922.  The Doctor had no interest in farming.  He was interested in developing the property into house lots. He teamed up with Robert Boles, a licensed broker as well as a businessman and politician.  Bob held the office of selectman in Marshfield.

Unknown to the Doctor, he was in for hard times, The Great Depression of 1929,  slammed  into the country.
Rich men became poor men overnight!  With the folding of the banks, many manufacturers went out of business, and building homes screeched to a halt. Dr.  Edwin Dwight and his partner Robert Boles had invested heavily into a large housing development on Holly Hill and Bayberry Beach.

This booklet published by Dwight and Boles,  describes the area and their offerings. c. 1920.



Upper left is Summer St., lower left is Church St., right center is Ferry St..
This site plan never happened.


A view looking northwest over the Thomas Little’s Grant on Summer St., now Cedar Acres.

Plans of one of their offerings.
This booklet contains 18 pages of Holly Hill and Bayberry Shores offerings .

Robert Boles survived the depression and opened a boat-building company in the former Humarock Ballroom on Ferry St., as well as his Real Estate business.

The Hall, Emery, Dwight  mansion, remained  vacant for a number of years.  The next residents were the Edwin Parker family.  He was a successful real estate investor. At the time of his obtaining this property, it had diminished to only a few acres surrounding the mansion. There is little information of his brief ownership.
My observations of the Parkers:
The first I remember of  the Parker’s  was  1940,  my first grade.   A black Packard limo would pass by as I waited for the school bus to the North School.
In the chauffeur-driven limo were 3 girls being transported to private schools in Hingham.   A wave from me got a return wave, but that’s the closest I ever got to knowing them.   In the following  summer, a sleek English car would occasionally race up Summer St.  I never knew where it came from until one Sunday I was hanging out on the porch at my uncle’s store in Humarock.  Up came the Jaguar SS 100 convertible sporting Mr. Parker, along with one of his daughters.  A quick In and out of the store and away they went.
Some time later, in 1947 or 48, I was visiting my friend on Emery Rd. and he told me that the mansion was abandoned.  He said his older brother was inside it and said that the owners just walked away from it….leaving everything.  Well, hearing that, Dave and I thought that was too much to ignore,  So, Dave & I  wandered  a short distance from his house down the hill.  And, oh my, the grounds had been ignored for quite some time and were quite overgrown.  As we walked around, I noticed how it needed paint and repairs everywhere. We peeked into the windows as best we could.  All the lower-floor windows were covered by drapes.  After a full-circle we decided we had trespassed enough.    My next visit was the following summer, with three classmates. We bicycled from Humarock, up the steep road to the mansion.  Upon arrival,  we peeked in the now-uncovered  windows.  It had been ransacked, although still full of furniture and other belongings.  We sat on the giant granite front step, just passing time, and the girls started singing “Cruising Down The River”.  They were inspired by looking down the South River…not far away.  I didn’t know many of the words, but sang along  as best I could. The girls, Phyllis & Barbara, knew all the words.

I have not found a good close-up photo of this once beautiful home.

“Cruising down the River on a Sunday afternoon…. With one you love, the sun above, waiting for the moon….. The old accordion playing a sentimental tune”……..and so on……

That was the last I saw of the mansion up close, and I haven’t found a thread of information of the last family to reside in the Hall/Emery/ Parker mansion.  It was razed the next year and a new home was built on the site.

NEXT……. PART 2,  A TOUR AROUND HOLLY HILL IN THE OLDEN DAYS….

FARMS
TOWN POUND
OLD HOMES
A LANDING STRIP

W.Ray Freden.

FERRY HILL’S EARLY DAYS

In the 1600’s an area called The New Marsh, later known as East Marshfield, was the entire northeast section, from Doggetts Ferry (Main St., Little’s Bridge) to the North & South Rivers’ mouth at Rexhame .   As the North River ran in  a northerly direction, a 70-acre, 70-foot high hill dominated the western bank of the river.  In  1638 a ferry-crossing was ordered by the Plymouth Colony Court on this hill’s eastern shore.
From top to bottom, Between Broad Creek and Little’s Creek,  a staging/mooring area for awaiting ships, was Pincin’s Bank. Then Rogers Wharf, the Ferry’s home, with a landing across the river to the Hummock’s. Next, J. Sherman, #1308, Ferry St. still exists. T. Rogers, Shipbuilder, no longer exists. L. Hall, the North River House, no longer exists.  W. Hall, site of the Bridgwaye Inn, next was Hall’s Shipyard and Wharf, & Blacksmith Shop. The unmarked Wharf was The Keene’s Yard, at the junction of The Ferry Rd. & Elm St.
This hill became known as  Ferry Hill, and the point where the Pilgrim Trail crossed the North River via a hand poled Ferry barge.
The Ferry Hill was covered with first growth trees…. White Pine, White and Red Oak, Chestnut, Black Walnut, Holly,  Elm, and Red  and  Sugar Maples, along with other species. Rose hips & beach plums covered the shoreline.
It was void of buildings until the early 1700’s.

Looking northwest from the Hummocks (Humarock) to Ferry Hill.
Roger’s Shipyard became the terminus and landing for the Ferry. This was beyond #1445 Ferry St. today.  Ferry hill was bordered by Elm St on it’s western border and The Ferry Rd. to the east & south.  No Sea St. until 1881-82.

                                      The Roger’s Wharf & Ferry Landing.

  Looking from Humarock,  northwest.  Left: William Hall residence,  now the site of the Bridgewaye Inn.  Center: the Luke Hall residence, The North River House.  Right: the Rogers Shipyard & Wharf. Also, the Ferry Landing.                     From Cynthia Hager Krusell’s book.

A fresh water stream ran parallel to Elm St, between Elm & the Ferry Hill.  At its high point, at Allerton Rd., it ran north to Little’s Creek where it became tidal.  It’s southern flow brought it into the marshland bordering Neptune Rd., and discharging across The Ferry Rd. into the river at the Hall’s Shipyard located on Capt. Day’s land.

 


A finished rigged Schooner leaving the Rogers Yard for it’s maiden voyage.

The “Norfolk”   Built at Whites Ferry.

The earliest record for a shipyard at the White’s Ferry area, was 1705.  This yard, Keene’s, harvested  timber from Ferry Hill, as well as Holly Hill, Carolina Hill and Centre Marshfield.  It didn’t take long to turn these areas into grazing land for cattle.

The North end of Ferry Hill was a shorebird and waterfowl mecca. Through the 1800’s a number of bird-hunting blinds could be found.

A shorebird hunter placing his decoys in Little’s Creek bordering the North of Ferry Hill.

 

These blinds overlooked Little’s Creek, the North River marshes, also Pine, Tilden,  and Trouants Islands, along with Fourth Cliff.  A dozen or two of decoys brought Yellowlegs, Whimbrels, Long Billed Curlews, Black-Bellied & Golden Plovers and Sanderlings by the hundreds. The local-market gunners could shoot from before sun-up to dark, harvesting hundreds of birds. Bushel boxes  and wood barrels were filled.  The local hunters kept very quiet about their favorite and bounty-full locations.
In 1871, the Railroad came to Marshfield. The first station in Marshfield  was East Marshfield,  followed by Littletown ( Sea View) and Centre Marshfield , all within a short trip to the North River shore. Rumors of great bird-hunting soon reached the city.  Affluent out-of-town  sportsmen gradually got wind of these hunting spots. Sea View was only an hour’s trip from Boston.  The local market hunters quickly turned to guiding these deep-pocket sportsmen.   They  picked the gunners up and after the hunt, returned them to the Sea View Railroad Station to catch the last train home with their bounty.

A horse &  wagon dropping off visitors & goods  at the Sea View Station

The local taverns, (Ye Surprise Inn), now (The Bridgewaye Inn)  and guest houses were also on the market-gunners’ list for a bushel or more of “Peeps” and ” Snipe”  to make a stew or pie for their guests.

Blinds were forced to move & began to lessen.  In 1918, a law was put on shorebirds  and waterfowl hunting which became controlled. Shorebirds were illegal to hunt and waterfowl now had designated seasons with a kill limit.

Looking northeast, overlooking the “New Marsh”.  Left, Victor Belanger’s cattle barn, Center, his boat house, George Ireland’s Club House, and Fourth Cliff in the distance.  On the right is Ferry Hill Rd, joining Grandview Ave.  Red Cedar trees now dominate the Hill… c.1860.

Looking S. with George Ireland’s  clubhouse (R.),  displacing a number of hunting blinds.

George Ireland , a businessman and land-developer, bought-up all the available land and laid out a plan of roads and lots in  1888.
Note; the bridge to Humarock was called the Ferry Bridge and built in 1881-82. The now Bridgewaye Inn was the Sea View House. The North River Beverage was the Josselyn’s stables. The remains of the Rogers Wharf  and Shipyard/ Whites Ferry  show here.  Shipyards and the building of sailing ships now disappeared  in the late 1800’s.  The last Ship built on the North River was 1871.

These small lots were geared for tents and camps for George Ireland’s city friends and cronies.  Summer weekends attracted droves of campers from  30 to 50 miles away.
An early 30’s camper

Mid 30’s.

Then came the platform tents.

Lunch time.

Early camps used cheap boarding from a local mill.


Followed by the popular novelty siding.

The Ferry Hill’s development was slowed down by the Great Depression with a short break of three years…..then stopped completely by WW ll for nearly 5 years.  It was then slow to get building materials.

In the mid-20’s the Crosby Water Co. built a pumping station and water storage tank on Ferry Hill.  Wells were established in the area, now known as The Thicket….a wetland  area with springs. This was developed to service Sea View  and  Humarock….the greatest demand coming from Humarock.  Public water suppliers were replacing outdated and contaminated private wells. Water lines were now found on most of the main roads in Marshfield.  By 1930 Ferry Hill was covered with a hundred homes or more.  Due to insufficient wastewater management, the wells became polluted and the Crosby
Water Co. shut down in 1946.

paintings by W. R. Freden.
Top: The water storage tank on Ireland Rd. opposite Carlton Rd.
Bottom:  The pumping house in the Thicket.

 

 

Just off Ireland Rd., an ice house was in construction to store ice for the demands of the Seaview Inn  (center), today’s Bridgwaye Inn.  c.1910, Left is the North River house.

Building-laws were creeping in and being enforced along with permits.
Tents disappeared, shacks were removed, building-lots became larger by adding adjoining-lots……allowing larger homes to be built.

A stately home at 51 Carlton Rd. Built in 1903.

 

The residents and shipyard workers watched history developing every day of the year for 200 plus years.  Over 1000 ships were rigged and outfitted with supplies and goods at the Whites Ferry Yards.
There are too many Ships to list here,  but the “Columbia”  was the first ship to circumnavigate the Globe and the “Beaver” was involved in the Boston Tea Party.
This little community of East Marshfield, Little Town, Sea View contributed to  history that has touched our entire country and beyond.
And today it is barely recognized by any of the above names. Today, one rusty sign marks the general location of Whites Ferry.   The Village of Seaview is nearly lost , an insult to it’s history by the lack of recognition.  There are three  roads leading  into Seaview.  None have a sign stating ” WELCOME TO SEAVIEW, ” a village of shipbuilding.

 

W. Ray Freden Seaview/ Marshfield 70 years.

 

SHOE & BOOT MAKING IN MARSHFIELD

The 1867 Marshfield street listing shows over 90 men listed as shoemakers. that included cobblers .  Most records show these locations in the North & East Villages, however I found mention of a  cobblers shop in the area of the Marshfield Store.


A Shoemakers workshop.

A Cobblers/Shoemakers  shop at 63 Union St. operated by Calvin Joyce. c.1900

The Doane/ Stevens shop in Littletown, (changed to Sea View in 1883.)
The residence was moved from its location to the now 35 Station St. (once Summer St}  to allow the Railroad to build a Station at the now,  53 Station St.
A two story Ell was added to this Cape Cod residence  to accommodate shoemaking  machinery  in rooms on the lower floor. Small rooms on the second floor were provided for  the workers that did not commute.
A large kitchen & a dinning room fed the workers three meals a day.
The Railroad next door provided shipping to the Shoe Markets.
The peak of the two story ell can be seen on the right roof line.

Thomas Stevens made a small fortune as a shoemaker and built a stately home across the street at 207 Summer St. in 1901.

Down the street at 110 Summer St. , a large general store was built by George Weatherbee Sr. and run by his son George Jr. from 1849 to 1852, It later  became the Gardner/Arnold Shoe Shop.
It was outfitted with state of the art machinery, the first sewing machines in town. In 1879.

Agnes Josephine Bonney,  Former resident of 5 Station St.

101 Summer St. looking north. The red building was the Gardner / Arnold Shoe Shop.  It was sold to George Pecker, a summer resident, and operated as a shoe shop short time.

It closed up shop in 1882. It then was vacant for a long time. It became a woodworking shop making many different wood products, model boats, bird houses, & novelties. It was acquired by the Donovan family in 1905.

Gardner / Arnold Shoeshop, 101 Summer St, Sea View.
Painting by W. Ray Freden 2019.

After it’s  long vacancy,  the building was razed  in 1950-1,  the front doors still  remain  on a small private  workshop in Seaview.

Now on a home shop in Seaview.

Another Shop at 88 Highland St. Lincoln Damond & Charles Tilden along with Albert Bates employing 15 to 25 shoemakers.

The small shoe industries gradually gave way to the large shoe factories in Brockton, Abington, Whitman, & other cities around Massachusetts & New Hampshire.
My Dad, Bill, along with his family were shoe factory employees. From a young age Bill worked in a large factory in Campello. He suggested to his boss that if they removed a hand operated lever from his machine,  and made it foot operated he could produce more.

Weeks later a machinist did alter the machine, in a short time Bill was out producing his coworkers by two to three times.  He got a raise & promoted to another duty, this new duty put more pressure on Bill than he wished. He chose to  quit,  He never returned to shoe-making.

The last cobbler in Marshfield was located in the small shop behind the car. This was the block of buildings east of Marshfield Radio & Television owned by Russ Chandler, Ocean St.
I am sure there were more home industry shoemakers in Marshfield,

The 1884 Street listing shows these Custom Shoemakers.

 

” I have three soles, left, right and all of the above.”
“It seems , there are more heels around  than there are shoes.”
“Have you noticed that a lot of sneakers are  holding their tongues .”


The above quotes by W. Ray Freden .

 

W. Ray Freden, Seaview/Marshfield 70 years.